Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Éirinn go Brách

Ancient, Mystical, Modern Ireland
So this trip to Ireland was all about taking me back…teaching me the Ancient Irish ways…an introduction to the history, the ancient people, the trad music and of course a few modern pleasures along the way.  I am not Irish and have no Irish ancestors, but since I met Fint I have been enjoying all things Irish…and I have to admit that I get the proud swell in my heart for Irish traditions now along with my American ones.  This visit we were tourists and historians, appreciating the old and the new in such a beautifully historic, vivid, current country.  Of course we also had a lovely visit with family and friends…it was a wonderful trip!  The only thing missing was my, I (Heart) Ireland t-shirt!
This trip was also during the winter…so it was stinking freezing!  This helped us to pick more indoor activities that we have neglected in the past to enjoy the warm Irish air.  This also made for a trip down memory lane for Fint as the museums he hasn’t been in since he was a school boy on a field trip.
Irish History
We went to the National Museum of Ireland in Dublin and the Library in Trinity College; both had amazing treasures housed inside their walls.  In the museum we were able to see ancient Irish jewellery which were golden and so simple and bold…quite beautiful pieces…I predict they will be back in fashion soon!  We also got to see the Tara Broach…which is stunning in its complex detail in the design.  The tiny intricate carvings and embellishments are breathtaking….even more amazing is the fact that it was created around 700 AD.  On our visit to Trinity College in Dublin we got to view the Book of Kells…which truly is a treasure.  The book of Kells is an illustrated manuscript in Latin and contains four of the New Testament books and was created by Celtic monks circa 800 AD.  The illuminations in this book are awe-inspiring…stunning to look at.  When you look at the pages of this book you know you are gazing on something truly special and unique.  The pages (or folios) of this book were made from calfskins.  The inks used to create the illuminations in this book were from such sources as red made from red lead, yellow was yoke of an egg, purple was from a plant found in the Mediterranean and blue was from a precious stone named Lapis Lazuli...and all was applied using feathers.  Amazing to get such vivid colors and intricate detail from such inks and all while using a goose feather.
A Few Book of Kells Pages
Dublina
This is a cool little place to follow the Viking History of the Irish people…and see a bit of how they lived.  Dublinia  and for that matter Christ Church are located in the heart of Dublin, pretty much on the spot of the first Viking settlement over a thousand years ago.
http://www.dublinia.ie/exhibitions_dublin-page.html
Christ Church Cathedral Dublin
This was a magical place for me…especially because we were able to see the Irish band Clannad perform in the cold, dark, dreamy atmosphere of this 1000+ year old church.  It is a beautiful church…well worth visiting when in Dublin.
The beautiful floor tiles.
Clannad
While in Dublin, touring the Christ Church Cathedral, we found out that Clannad was playing the next evening in this beautiful, historic church.  We jumped at the opportunity to attend this Celtic concert during the Temple Bar Trad Fest 2011, which just happened to be on while we were in Dublin!
The feeling that comes from watching Clanned live in concert is so hard to describe…it is haunting, beautiful, they are an amazing band to see in concert, they transport you to another time, in another world…the show they put on is breathtaking.
At one point the lights went dark…then out of the middle of the audience stood some men (from  the Irish group Anúna ) who started to do a Gregorian chant….it was beautiful…then walking up the isles were women, also from Anúna , in dark clokes holding candles…lighting the path and they sang in Gaelic…so beautiful….it brought tears to my eyes and a lump in my throat. This was another one of those moments that I will store forever in my memory…such a soft, beautiful memory to have.
Leaving after the show.


For more info on the Dublin, Temple Bar Trad Fest 2011….click on this link:  http://www.templebartrad.com/
Clontarf Castle
For part of our trip we stayed in the beautifully renovated Clontarf Castle.  The rooms are very nicely outfitted, with big plush beds and even WiFi; a bit of modern comforts within a beautiful historic setting.  The fireplaces in this castle are huge and inviting….we sat in the pub and drank some hot ports while warming our bones by the fireplace...such a lovely way to end an evening before retiring to bed. 

Clontarf and Clontarf Castle are heavily interwoven with Irish History and historical figures such as Brian Boru (see the link below).
Of Course…The Food!!
The food available in Ireland is amazing.  I don’t believe I have had a bad meal yet…in the entire country!  So when I am home in KL…eyeballing the “Fish Head Curry” and/or “Fish Porridge” signs…I long for the food of Ireland…and these meals are tops in my memory bank.
Leo Burdock's
This fish and chips shop has no seating area and is tiny but they serve up fish and chips the best way to get them…rolled in paper [Fintan] (used to be news paper) and covered with salt and malt vinegar!  Messy to eat…but I did a good job finishing all of my fish.  If you ever find yourself wandering around Dublin, hungry and not caring about the calories…stop in here and get your trashy on!
Fintan Fact: This is the definitive Dublin Fish and chips.
I wonder what that guy in the window is thinking....


Roly’s Bistro
Okay, I have had venison many ways…and I have loved them all…but the rare venison I had at Roly’s Bistro was the most tender, exquisite venison I have ever been blessed to touch my taste buds.  Each bite was perfection…heavenly...the type of meal you never forget.  I still dream about that venison…I will never tire of saying…”Fint, do you remember that venison I had in Dublin?......I wish I had that now….”
Fintan Fact : This is one of my favorite restaurants in the world. That statement now has a lot of research backing it up!!

Patrick Guilbaud
Fint and I were feeling very indulgent one afternoon and wanting to have a lunch to remember…something completely different than what is available in Malaysia.  So he took me to Patrick Guilbaud in Dublin….and it was amazing.  We sat down with a couple hot ports in the lush lobby and sipped away the cold before lunch.  We then had appetizers, lunch, and dessert….the whole experience was romantic and elegant.
The food here is hard to explain, it is prepared in such innovative ways.  It is as amazingly tasty as it is beautiful.  Each dish feels like it’s own special occasion, demanding a memory all its own.  Not just oh that was a good meal…but more like….each dish has to be discussed and drooled over.  The food demands attention…you cannot just shovel the well prepared dishes into your mouth and not take time to relish in their delicious uniqueness.  The food here made an ordinary day feel like a special occasion…but we were alive and in love…that is occasion enough….right?  I think so too!
The Amazing soufflé 
Our Desserts 
Johnny Fox’s
Every time we visit Ireland I love to drive the beautiful, winding country road up to Johnny Fox’s, the highest pub in the country, nestled in the Dublin Mountains for their amazing chowder with brown bread and an Irish Coffee.  This pub was established in 1798 and is one of the oldest in Dublin!  It is said, from a reliable source, that if a boy takes you to Johnny Fox’s that he doesn’t want to be seen with you and you are a secret date, so if that’s true…then as long as I am eating some chowder, cold crab claws and some brown bread…I don’t mind one bit! Keep me secret…keep me safe…keep me well fed!
Pubs, Pubs, Pubs
We warmed our bones in many a crowded pub in Dublin…enjoying Hot Ports, Guinness’s, Irish Coffees and Hot Toddys…they made the cold bearable and welcomed!
The Field (Irish Play) By John B Keane
We happened to find out that The Field was playing in Dublin…so we thought what a better date night than to have dinner and a play.   It was very good…a wonderful night out!
The Irish Sea: Termonfekin Beach
As beautiful as ever...even if it was bitter cold out!
We went for a walk along the beach and enjoyed the salty, crisp sea air...good for the lungs.

St. Peter's Church, Drogheda Cathedral

This is a piece of wood from Jesus’ cross


Saint Oliver Plunkett's Skull



Ruins of Mellifont Abbey, County of Louth

Friends/Family
And no trip to Ireland would be complete without seeing family and friends…we had a full visit…full of food, family, friends, fun, culture and time well spent. 
Anna May and I 
John Mc, Orla, Brona, John W. and I 
Fint and Frances 
Fint, Frances and Phill

Photos around Ireland

Slane Bridge over the River Boyne near Slane Castle

At the Irish Jewellery Show

I'm in Dublin Trick 

 The Beautiful Gardens at Powerscourt House

Eating good pub grub